Franz Josef

Our arrival in Franz Josef wasn’t auspicious. We were seated very politely in the hotel foyer while the manager tried to find out why there was no booking for us. Eventually the lines of communication between the Trailfinders, hotel chain HQ and hotel were straightened out and we were in our room. Phew. A slightly fraught moment, particularly since all the hotels/motels we had seen said firmly “No Accommodation”.

We checked out Heli Hikes that evening so we were prepared for the following morning. The guidance was that they would provide everything  we just needed to be reasonably warmly dressed.

So the next day we turned up to be issued with socks, boots, waterproof jackets and trousers, crampons and bags to carry things in. Once we were dressed and briefed we walked over to the helicopter-pad.  The ground crew said that they operate up to eight aircraft at a time from there.

Strapped in and with earphones on, we headed up to the glacier.  First we flew over the grey rocks which formed the fairly dry river bed at the bottom of the valley.  Then we were given a bit of a fly around as we ascended, turned well above the point we were to land at and then zig-zagged down to it.

The short path from the landing point to where we were to put on our crampons was slushy ice but it was still quite difficult to get used to walking on.  Crampons are a bit of an art too but once we were used to them we found that they gave us lots of grip.

Once we were all ready our guides led us off, using long ice axes to improve the path we were to take.  The day was hot and sunny and so there was a lot of melted water flowing around.  Normally it just flowed along channels it had cut in the ice but sometimes it just disappeared down holes, presumably to emerge later as under ice streams. Although there seemed to be quite a lot of rock dust in/on the ice our guides assured us that the water was good to drink and most of us tried it.  Not bad at all.

As we climbed we were going towards a very large piece of rock round which the ice was flowing.  The effect of the ice on pieces of rock was rather like the penny arcade game where you add coins in the hope that one of them will push others over the edge and down.  The movement of the ice was pushing bits of rock towards the edge of the large piece and, every so often, there would be a mini rock fall.  We were safely out of the way.

As we reached an area of more disturbed ice we turned for home.  Although the colour of the surface ice was whiteish, tinged with rock dust, in places where there were holes in the ice these could be an amazing blue. Towards the end of the walk we looked at an area on the other side of the glacier which was heavily crevassed.  It was obvious why exploration in the ice is a slow process.

 

The helicopter returned and took us directly back to the pad area.  When we got back to base we declined with regrets the offer of free use of the associated hot springs for the rest of the day and set off southwards along the coast road towards Wanaka.

As we went along the northern part, near Bruce Bay, the sea mist was rolling in but when we turned inland at Haast the weather got better. Along Highway 6 and across the Haast Pass.  Slightly disappointing.  We saw no indication and rather  missed it.

Driving South, Lake Wanaka appears on the right hand side of the road then you turn across a short piece of land and you are driving with Lake Hawea on your left. We were lucky to see them in sunshine when they were a beautiful deep blue.

In Wanaka we checked in to our B&B and asked the manager for a recommendation for dinner.  We set off for the Lakeside Inn where we had an excellent supper.  Slept very well afterwards thanks to my not noticing the beer I had ordered was 7% ABV and the extra couple of glasses of wine which arrived as a result of a bar error.

Greymouth to Franz Josef via Hokitika

While in Greymouth our B&B host had recommended that we should see the Pancake Rocks which are only  a few kilometres North of the town along the coastal highway.  So, on leaving the next morning, we duly made our way along that road.

Our hire car. An upgrade!
Our hire car. An upgrade!

The weather was warm and muggy and we saw sea clouds rolling in in places.  The road is pretty much along the sea with the semi-tropical forest, typical of the Western side of the mountains, rising steeply inland.

 

 

We got to the rocks in no time at all, despite our first experience of the common NZ road building technique of connecting stretches of two lane road with single track bridges.  Disconcerting until you get used to it.  I think we had expected the rocks would be at the end of a track from a nondescript car park.  Not so.  There is a large car park, iSite, cafe and a Tarmac path with information boards leading down to, round and back from the rocks via a different route.  It was also our first experience of a tourist site in NZ at Chinese New Year.  It was busy. And we saw our first Jucy rental vehicle, a common sight on the roads here.

While on the path down to the rocks, we heard lots of cicadas chirping (If they chirp.  Perhaps that’s crickets). They were on the flax plants and one was clearly visible.

Pancake Rocks looking South
Pancake Rocks looking South

The Pancake Rocks are in Punakaiki. They are layers of limestone, the layers being caused by the pressure on alternating layers of hard and soft deposits when the rocks were formed. A very interesting formation, slowly being worn away by the action of the sea. There are blow holes which perform at high tide and probably best with strong onshore surf. We didn’t have those conditions so we stayed dry.

Leaving the Rocks, we turned back towards Greymouth and passed through on our way to Hokitika. The cloud had cleared by this time and we arrived in brilliant sunshine.  The town is now a centre for tourism and, it would appear, a laid-back lifestyle. We had a wander around the beach looking at some of the imaginative art work made from drift wood in a recent competition.

Greymouth

We had contacted the B&B where we were staying in Greymouth the day before we arrived to confirm details. “Arriving at 3.00pm? Perfect.  See you then.” So when the boating team dumped us a bit early we just sat outside the B&B on chairs in the shade. Jane read her Kindle; I fiddled with email. At about 3.00 we rang the bell. Nothing but no problem.  We’ll just continue chilling here.  3.15 and still no reply, including to a phone call.  Visions of having to find alternative accommodation begin to form. At 3.30, just as we were wondering whether we needed forensics, a nice chap arrived by car at the back of the property and let himself, then us, in.

From then on we were very well looked after. Having been recommended a restaurant (Buccleugh’s on High. Found later to be pretty good) we went off and booked a table before proceeding down (past the local RSA which came complete with 25 pounder and Bofors guns) into town to check out the car hire arrangements for the next day.  Then we started to walk round town, along a shore-side cycling track. Glorious hot weather still.

The town rather reminded us of Bo’ness in Scotland.  A coal production and exporting town trying to find a focus in the 21st century following the loss of its original raison d’être.  Greymouth has the advantage of tourism but there is still a lot of Victorian and Edwardian infrastructure which people are now trying to use profitably.

 

 

TranzAlpine to Greymouth

 

We had decided to travel from Christchurch to Greymouth by the TranzAlpine railway link in order to see the scenery across the island.  And, despite a comment from a fellow passenger that the Rockies are better, we don’t regret it.

Checking out of the hotel early, we were shuttled to the station in time to check in by 0745. Our baggage joined others’ in the baggage van (a some what old fashioned but very useful facility) at the front of the train but it was labelled since we planned to disembark at Moana, a couple of stops before Greymouth.

The TranzAlpine left Christchurch at 8.15. Our carriage was almost empty and we thought that the booking clerk must have been wrong the previous day when she  said that the train would be full.  However, we soon stopped at Darfield and the carriage filled with people who were on a tour.  All very organised.

We crossed the Canterbury plains, gaining height all the time. The clouds, down over the mountains to the West, soon burned off leaving us with hot sunshine.  The track on the Eastern side of the mountains weaves along the valley of the Waimakariri river and there are some excellent views.  Jane stayed in our seats while I went to the observation car, armed with the camera. And quickly returned. It was open at both sides and cold in the wind.  A jacket was called for.

Properly clad, I took up a position in the viewing car quite early in the journey when few others were about.  As the train moved up the valley, more people joined us until it became pretty crowded.  Staying on one side, I was able to keep a position from which to take photographs.  There were frequent short tunnels when it was necessary to make sure that camera and arms were inside the carriage.

At Arthur’s Pass station the tour party left us to make their way by coach to Franz Josef while additional engines were attached to the train to assist with the passage through the Otira Tunnel.  The tunnel is 8.5km long and has a steep gradient of 1 in 33. The engines make fumes which are sucked out by fan but the observation car is shut while passing through.

Once once we were through the tunnel it was only 35  minutes or so before the train reached Moana on Lake Brunner where we and our baggage left.  We had booked what was billed as a gentle drift down river where we could relax and learn about local nature, customs and legends. The rubber dinghy into which we got, and were given our own paddles didn’t quite seem to match the description.

In fact, we had quite a good afternoon assisting with paddling downstream (although the two guys who formed the crew insisted that they would have done all the work if we had wanted). We did learn to identify the local flax plant and to make simple woven objects from its leaves.

The weather was very hot and sunny and we were glad to land and to rejoin our luggage in a mini-bus to complete the journey to Greymouth.

Christchurch

Arriving in to Christchurch airport at just before midnight we were met by our booked driver and transported (and given a few NZ hints) into town and to the Chateau on the Park where we fell into bed and slept solidly until dawn.

After a late breakfast we decided to walk to the railway station to check out arrangements for our TranzAlpine trip. On the way we saw that the local hospital had adopted a parking strategy and pricing which might lend itself to the Royal Surrey.

Park and ride
Park and ride
Reasonable charge
Reasonable charge

 

 

 

 

We also saw this small business advertising its long service credentials.

Roll out the barrel
Roll out the barrel

 

 

 

 

 

Christchurch is a nice little station but hardly over utilised. Like all railway companies, fallen staff are remembered

At the station
At the station
They are remembered
They are remembered

 

 

 

 

 

We then went to a nearby outdoor activity store to buy a sun hat. Then, walking back towards town by a slightly circuitous route we stumbled on an old-fashioned cobbler’s shop.

Much cheaper than a new bag
Our saviour
Old time ability
Old time ability

 

 

 

 

 

Just what was needed since Jane’s handbag strap had become detached. “Which day would you like it? the cobbler asked. “Now” we replied. “We are leaving soon”. “Well, come back in 15 minutes”. That gave time for a visit to a great café over the road for another round of (skinny) flat whites. Very well frequented. It must have its offering right.

Walked on into town through what looked like an emerging area

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And past some really good graffiti.

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The route to town took us over the River Avon which offered punt trips.  We decided against and walked on, admiring the Edwardian costumes.

Messing about in boats
Messing about in boats

 

 

 

 

The Tourist office (called an iSite in NZ) at the Christchurch museum and booked a few local attractions. The first was the International Antarctic Centre.

imageA coach was due to leave from just outside the museums not a few minutes time and so we sat and waited. Soon a small coach, surmounted by plastic penguins turned up and we got on. With us was a Chinese family -mum, dad and a son of about 8. The lad had really good English. I’d be staggered to meet a similar British child with a good command of Mandarin.

The Antarctic experience started with a 10 minute ride in a Hagglund, a Swedish amphibious vehicle which the New Zealanders use at their bases. It has two cabins, multi-track drive, can swim, is articulated and copes with very steep angles. It is also very noisy and hideously uncomfortable on hard ground. Suppose it might be OK on snow.

Hagglund
Hagglund
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Noise makers
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Before the ride

Feeling slightly queasy, we were then sent to the Antarctic Storm room. Here we were dressed in waterproof coats and overboots before entering an ice cold room which had some real snow compacted around. The lights were then turned down and large fans started to simulate the effects of a storm. It felt very cold and we were glad to be released back to the warmth outside.

All togged up and ready to go
All togged up and ready to go
Cold
Cold
Add wind. It's colder.
Add wind. It’s colder.

 

 

 

 

 

Penguin feeding started at 3.30. There is a small colony of Little Blue Penguins. All imagehave suffered some injury in the wild and have been rescued to the centre. Most are agile in the water and have no difficulty taking the (caught in European waters, frozen, freighted and then thawed) sprats which they are fed. Some have beak injuries and are fed by hand while one is terrified of the water and so needs to be put in every so often to bathe. She doesn’t linger there long and leaves like a rocket.

At 4.00 we experienced what was billed as a 4D movie of a cruise to the Antarctic. That’s 3D with water to simulate spray and soap bubbles to make (quite realistic) snow flakes. The cruise is now on the bucket list! As the last free bus to town was due to leave at 4.30 we cut the visit short slightly. With typical NZ consideration, our driver made a short detour and dropped us off at the hotel.

The following day (Sunday, Jane tells me. The days of the week are still a bit of a muddle) we walked across Hagley Park, the large and very pleasant green space alongside which the hotel sits, into town.

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imageimageAs we walked over the park it was clear that preparations were in hand for some sort of event and just before we got to the town we came across the end position for “The Pioneer” which is “an awe inspiring seven day mountain bike stage race through New Zealand’s pristine Southern Alps”.  Still some time to go before it got into full swing. As ever, the air was full of the sounds of cicadas.

We jumped on a tram (our second sight-seeing ticket) and were taken on a tour round the city.

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Despite the driver’s commentary, it was very difficult to comprehend the earthquake damage suffered by what was obviously once a lovely city.

 

Cathedral buttresses
Cathedral buttresses
Same support
Same support
Spalling concrete
Spalling concrete
Multi-story car park
Multi-story car park

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PWC building piling
PWC building piling
Millennium Hotel
Millennium Hotel

 

 

 

 

 

Boarded off buildings
Boarded off buildings
And yet more
And yet more

The tram brought us to the museum to wait for the bus up to the Gondola base.

Do you know who is parked there?
Do you know who is parked there?

When it turned up the driver found that his allocated slot was taken so he parked elsewhere and had a short ferret round to see whether he could find the culprit. No luck, so he hopped back onboard and drove us to our destination.

A short ride brings you to the Gondola summit station at the top of the Port Hills which has spectacular views of the city and of the port of Lyttleton on the other side of the peninsula. Looking down at the port there was a familiar sight – HMS PROTECTOR. Probably on her way home after the season.

We took a walk for about an hour, down to a road leading away down the hill, closed due to rock falls, and watched para-gliders hurling themselves off a cliff and twisting gently down to a sports field below. Despite it being overcast, the UV was stronger than we expected and we were a little red at the end.

Dropped back in town we had a bit more of a walk around to see some of the seeds of reconstruction.  A part of the tram journey had been through a major construction site and businesses have sprung up in a container mall.  Established businesses are also pressing on.

Once we got back to the museum, we walked through the botanic gardens to the hotel. Through some lovely plants and serenaded by a pop concert hosted by the local radio channel. A great way to end the day.

Lovely roses in the botanic gardens.
Lovely roses in the botanic gardens.

 

 

 

Blogging by iPad

It has taken much longer than it should have done to get the blog on Christchurch posted.  This has been due to poor internet connections (wifi and 3G) and lack of familiarity with the software.  Looking at the post it looks a bit ragged.

In the process I have learned about galleries. This should make photos easier and the whole thing a bit smarter.

Comments welcome.

Sydney

Arrived Sydney about 15 minutes late at 0745. But that wasn’t an issue since we had all day before the flight to Christchurch that evening. Bags were through ticketed so we just had to get ourselves out of the airport and a not town. We had e-visas and that system worked well. Booked through we went to the Qantas desk on the transit side to check in for he Sydney – Christchurch leg. No problem. We were allowed out of the transit side by a slightly confused Border Guard officer but she opened the door and directed us to the immigration line. Being honest citizens, we had declared that we had some of Jane’s exercise biscuits with us. Being naïve we didn’t think that meant we had to go through the red line. We found out that it did after a bit of queuing in the green lane when the rather bored officer there directed us to the back of the red lane queue for processing. Less than amused. The signing isn’t at all clear.

Once through immigration we set off to the city centre where we were meeting some of Jane’s distant cousins for lunch. The price for two return tickets $75 seemed quite pricey when compared to the Piccadilly Line to LHR. Exiting at Circular Quay our first stop was coffee.

Looking at the Sydney Harbour Bridge with a cruise liner in the foreground.what could be better? A couple of flat whites were just what we needed.

Cafe life
Cafe life

Then a quick look for a pharmacy to buy the anti-bug preparation we had been recommended to deal with the sand flies expected in NZ. Brilliant sunshine so we had a quick wander and looked at the Opera House from a distance before going to find Jane’s cousins Jen(ny), Alex and James plus Jen’s husband Karl and James’ fiancé in the restaurant they had booked .

Karl, Jen, James, Jane and Alex
Karl, Jen, James, Jane and Alex

Great to meet them and to talk family.

 

 

imageWhile we were in the restaurant the forecast T-storm arrived. It got much darker and than the skies opened, driving everyone indoors (where we were already). Then, as it had arrived, the rain departed and we had sunshine for a walk to the Opera House.

 

 

 

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City from the Opera House
City from the Opera House

Finally, back to the airport for the onward flight.

Heathrow to Sydney

Made it onboard the aircraft (a 777 for aircraft anoraks) after a bit of a delay on the way to the gate area caused by an incident which seemed to require lots of police and a para medic on a bicycle.

Early part of the journey enlivened by a young child.  Fortunately, after his pasents’ s arming was rearranged, he went off to sleep. Flight path out over North Sea and into Russia. Dinner preceded by a glass of wine and the smallest packet of pretzels I have ever seen.

 

 Cabin lights out but many had their own personal screens on. A surprising number set to show the plane’s position and flight detIls.  Rather surreal.


On through the darkness and over China, nudging the mountainous lands to the South, over desert and the coastal region to Hong Kong.


As we came in to land at the new airport it was pouring.  The aircraft was fitted with an under-body camera. It had been little use during the flight as it had been dark and above cloud. But it provided a great view of the runway as we came in to land.

 

Wheels down

Hong Kong was no more than a transit stop. But the airport Windows gave great views over towards the Peak, poking up through the cloud which blanketed its sides.


The rain beat down when we left giving only intermittent views of the city as we climbed into the clouds.

Off we go

Well, here we are at Heathrow. Bags dropped, boarding cards issued, through security and last minute bits and pieces bought. 

Taxi trip here was uneventful except for a bit of congestion delay in Guildford and in the M25. The driver certainly knew all the short cuts including one through the airport from T5.

Now sitting in Cafe Nero waiting for the flight gate to be announced.

Watching for the gate

Hangers Trail – Day 2

After the previous day’s bright, crisp walking, listening to the wind and rain overnight we knew we were in for something different . Looking out of the window in the morning confirmed this.  But we were fed a very hearty breakfast which fortified us for the day ahead. The Hawkley Inn had lived up to our expectations from previous visits. Recommended for a meal or a stop-over.

IMG_8246
Looking back down Weatham Hill

Well wrapped up against the weather, we set off South from Hawkley, only pausing to collect our gloves which we had left inside. After Oakshott there was a steep climb up Weatham Hill. Wet and misty at this point.

 

 

 

 

IMG_8247

This continued as we turned at the top of the hanger rounf towards Shoulder of Mutton Hill. Descending from there wasn’t fun – the chalk under the top soil was very slippery.

 

Sanctuary under the lytch gate at Steep
Sanctuary under the lych gate at Steep

The track took us down through trees with quite a substantial stream running through into a series of ponds and on down to the Oakhurst Farm area. In summer it would be very pretty; at this time of year you can see why it might be difficult to get flood insurance.  Then up through a muddy wood until we reached Steep where we took shelter under the lych gate to have a quick snack. The parochial dust bin was useful too.

 

Steep took us down past Bedales School which looked pretty quiet. The only people we saw were what looked like a couple of the cooking staff having a cigarette near the path, at the edge of the school grounds.

A3 Southbound
A3 Southbound

Over the A3 and into Petersfield – still raining. Once in Petersfield the signs for the Hangers Way stopped so we went into the tourist information office (aka the library) to ask for directions. Having said that we had the standard brief description of the route we were given directions. The woman said that it would be muddy. Can’t be worse than what we have done already we said.  Wrong!  We waded through mud and standing water and after several hundred yards realised that we were not on the Hangers Way. After reading the map, more wading and moving some Herras fencing we eventually regained the right track.

The walk up the valley to Buriton was not pleasant. It was along the side of a slope and very slippery. But the village itself is lovely. An old manor House, church and pond. A sunny day would make it perfect.

It took a short detour and a kind driver to put us on the right track but it was then a fairly simple walk to the Country Park. Here we were met by a knight in shining BMW, our friend

Thanks for the lift squire
Many thanks for the lift squire

Mark Harvey who (after we had removed boots and other mud-caked clothing) fed us coffee and cake before transporting us to Petersfield station to catch the train back to Guildford. He would have taken us home if we hadn’t already bought the tickets.

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Of course, the sun came out!!

 

 

 

 

 

Total distance: 0 m
Total climbing: 0 m
Total descent: 0 m

From the map

Total distance 15.7km

Total Climb 369m

Total descent 402m