New Zealand – Page 3 – Roaming Robertsons

Dunedin

Friends have said that Dunedin was a bit of a waste of time for them. I have to admit that it has not been the most exciting place we have visited in New Zealand but for us it has been worthwhile.

Our main reason for coming to the city was to try to get help in finding out something about the people in a photograph, handed down through my paternal grandparents, taken in the last part of the 19th Century. We knew that NZ genealogists were available in the Dunedin library on Friday and Sunday afternoons and had timed our visit accordingly.

So we had a morning to fill and thought that the Taieri Gorge return rail journey would be a good use of the time if we could get seats at the last minute. Trains leave at 0930 so we turned up well in advance, about 0830, and were able to buy what were said to be the last two tickets. There was then time for a bit of a walk around the station and its surroundings before we boarded.

Thought this might be the steepest street

When we boarded we were in a comparatively modern carriage. Even so, it had plenty of old fashioned character.

It also had no viewing platform so there was a small viewing car just forward of it. Nothing like the size of the dedicated cars in the TranzAlpine. On the outward journey I tried to use this but it was very crowded. On the way back I went to one of the older carriages which had an open section at either end. More successful.

The rail track follows the course of the Taieri River up onto the plain near Pukerangi. On its way it passes over the Wingatui Viaduct, one of the longest wrought iron structures in the Southern Hemisphere.

Some of the infrastructure is showing its age

At Hindon we waited until an earlier train, laid on for the passengers in a cruise liner which had berthed at Dunedin, passed on its return journey. Both there and at Pukerangi locals had set up stalls to sell art and produce.

Our train should have been back in Dunedin by 1.30 but, due to the wait for the cruise ship train, it was nearer 2.30 when we arrived at the platform. We made our way to the library where both a librarian and the genealogist were able to help us in our quest. A thoroughly worthwhile day.

The following morning we had decided to visit the Otago Settlers Museum which is near the station. We arrived bright and early at 9.00 to find that it opens at 10.00. So we went for a wander round the craft market which was being set up in the Octagon in the city centre, had a cup of coffee and looked at some of the great old architecture before the museum opened.

The museum was really interesting and we could have stayed much longer but we had to move on. But before going North we wanted to see Larnach Castle, the only castle in New Zealand. So we drove out along the peninsula, past familiar places such as Portobello. Unfortunately Larnach has no reciprocal arrangements with the NT. Entry is $NZ30 per person to the house and gardens and $NZ15 to the garden only. We opted for the garden!

Finally, we had to see Baldwin Street which is claimed to be the steepest residential street in the World. It looks a pretty good angle, although we didn’t have time to climb it.

Queenstown

Queenstown is the “buzziest” place we have visited in New Zealand so far. It is a resort town, possibly one of the capitals of extreme sports, and filled with people of all nationalities bent on enjoying themselves. We joined in on our second visit, without resorting too much to the extreme.

We stayed again in the Best Western Cranberry, a short distance out along Gorge Road. Less than 5 minutes walk from the town centre. Conveniently, they had a baggage room and had kept those belongings we did not need on the Milford Track (i.e. most of them).

Having said that we avoided extreme sports, our first event the next day was a jet-boat ride on Shotover Canyon. We were early at the Station Building check in so our ride was advanced by 15 minutes. When we got to the beach area we were issued with long waterproof overcoats and life jackets and invited to dump anything we didn’t want in the secure locker stowage. We then went down and boarded the boat where we were briefed. In essence this was “hang on tight”.

Once underway, the driver performed a couple of pirouettes for the camera before taking us haring down river, through shallows (the boat draws about 4 inches on the plane) and missing rocks by inches. Every so often he put the boat into a 360 turn. All very exhilarating until you remember that your safety is in the hands of a NZ water-borne petrol-head (the boat apparently used 40l of fuel every half hour!) Still, we enjoyed it.

Once we were off the boat we went to collect our belongings from the locker. It was empty! The staff had emptied it to allow newcomers to store things. Gives secure a new meaning. We also bought the pictures. Only place we have done this so far. Cameras not allowed onboard and it would be difficult to capture these shots yourself.

After the coach trip back we made our way to the car rental, picked up our hire car (no upgrade this time) and dropped it back at the motel. We then walked to the cable car which takes people (and their bikes if they want) to the top of Bob’s Peak which overlooks the town. At the top we had a nice light lunch of Greek salad before going out to the viewing platform for a really good view of Queenstown.

We then had fun walking round watching people throw themselves down the mountain. There were three methods:

Mountain bike. We went to the start of the trail and listened to the bikers discussing previous injuries, a broken leg here, a damaged shoulder there. Not sure if there were any casualties.

The luge. These are dry slope sledges which run down a track at the top of the mountain. You take the luge up on a short chair lift section then down you go. There didn’t seem to be any age restrictions although we saw a girl of about 5 unable to understand how to control her sled and then carried down by her father.

Paragliding. Another opportunity for New Zealanders to chuck themselves off mountains. Tandem flights were offered and a surprising number of people seemed ready to take up the offer. In truth, I was quite tempted.

We had decided that in the afternoon we would take a cruise on the lake on TSS Earnslaw (TSS = Twin Screw Ship) so after we got back from the Peak (By gondola. Nothing scary.) we set off to buy tickets. We resisted the dinner cruises or the cream tea excursions to Walter’s Peak farm and settled for simple return tickets. There was a bit of time to kill and so we had a bit of a wander around the area by the jetty.

Eventually Earnslaw hove into view, smoke pouring from her funnel as she slowed down (she is the last coal fired ship in the Southern Hemisphere). Once her speed was steady the smoke came under control and had ceased by the time she approached the jetty.

This would get the PO Stoker on watch a sharp reprimand

Once the ship was alongside all the incoming passengers disembarked and we all boarded amidships. Cargo was handled forward. The ship was pretty full.

We cruised out and back to Walter’s Peak farm jetty where passengers were changed and supplies for the farm restaurant disembarked.

Earnslaw is a fascinating example of old technology working. She is driven by two triple-expansion engines powered by two locomotive boilers. Unlike in most such vessels, visitors are allowed into the engine room. It was surprisingly quiet, nothing like the noise you had in the machinery spaces of steam propelled warships. Of course, the equipment was much less powerful and sophisticated.

The whole ship was redolent of times past.

After disembarking back in Queenstown we walked back to the apartment and a quiet supper.

Milford Sound to Queenstown

The final part of our time with Ultimate Hikes on the Milford Track was a boat trip

Early morning cruis ship transfer — Early morning cruise ship transfer

on Milford Sound followed by transport back to Queenstown. When we got up there was another great view out of the window down the Sound. A cruise ship had come in for a passenger transfer and was lying off the harbour with an accompanying rainbow.

Having followed our usual routine of preparing sandwiches for lunch and having breakfast we handed back to the guides the back packs which we had borrowed from Ultimate Hikes. All our belongings were then in the two large plastic inner sacks with which we had been provided.

Looking down the sound on the way to the dock

At about 8.30 we set off to walk down to the dock for the boat which was to take us on the Sound which we boarded at 9.15 for a 9.30 departure. We were shepherded by Andrew, one of the guides, while the other three prepared paperwork, loaded the coach and generally did whatever was necessary to ensure the operation ran smoothly for us. They really did well for us, not only guiding and interpreting on the route but acting as front of house staff in the hostels. Not particularly well payed, they do the job because they love the life outdoors. They were great.

Stu behind — Andrew takes advantage of the boat trip

A number of boats left the dock in fairly quick succession. We all went out towards the Tasman Sea for about 45 minutes then turned for home. The commentary by the skipper was pretty much inaudible to those of us who were on the upper deck but the boat company we were with had provided leaflets which gave a some useful info on what we were seeing. The day was overcast with a bit of a breeze and the boat was moving fast for most of the time so we were well wrapped up in fleece and waterproof jackets.

After we had turned for home the skipper took the boat close to a large rock on which were basking a number of New Zealand fur seals. Unfortunately we didn’t get to see any of the dolphins which often come into the Sound.

What was not lacking, of course, was scenery. The glaciers which cut the fiord did a magnificent job and peaks, rock formations and waterfalls abound.

The final adventure on the voyage was when we approached the Stirling Falls at the edge of the Sound. The boat went in and stopped with its bows almost under the waterfall. The speed of the dropping water created a strong down draft which helped to blast the spray onboard. Quite an eerie experience.

Disembarking from the boat those of us opting for road travel rejoined the coach and set off down State Highway 94 towards Te Anau. On the way we went through the Homer Tunnel, the struggle to build this is described in the leaflet. Even today, it is a single track tunnel and vehicles have to wait while others come the other way. There is an electronic count-down system which tells drivers how long they will have to wait until the tunnel is clear. The half dozen or so who had decided to return by helicopter left us at that point to wait and see whether the flight would be possible given the weather conditions.

At Te Anau Downs the coach stopped briefly to drop off Isaac who was to be one of the guides for another hiking group on the Milford Track, starting that day. Looking at the weather forecast we thought that they would probably have a damper walk than ours.

We stopped at Te Anau to eat lunch and to drop off two couples who had booked to walk the Routeburn Track immediately after the Milford. Brave souls.

Back at Queenstown we disembarked from the bus and said our farewells. A great experience and great people. Very well worth it.

Milford Track – Day 4

Day 4 is a 21 km walk out from Quintin Lodge, following the Arthur River. We were a bit stiff and sore after the previous day but started out in the first group with team NZ/USA (Robyn, Stu and Steph) and led by Fumi. The cloud was down in the valley and we were going at what we thought was a good pace until Fumi said that she needed to go ahead to prepare the morning break point at Boatshed. We kept going but she just shifted up a couple of gears and soon disappeared over the horizon.

The track was generally well maintained and we soon came across evidence of the work put into this (although the wheelbarrow was a little incongruous). However, all this effort does not make the track immune from the effects of nature and we had to negotiate a jumble of fallen trees brought down by a land slip.

Boathouse is just that, an old boathouse converted into a shelter for walkers. It is well equipped, if Spartan.

While at Boathouse, Barry, our fishing fanatic, set out once again in search of the trout which had eluded him. He had carried his rod, flies and other equipment for the whole time, fishing on a number of occasions but without success. On this occasion he set out wading towards a spot where his land-based helpers had located a target. We didn’t stop to watch but the rumour was that he had been successful. If so, he must have returned the fish since nobody appears to have seen it.

We moved on, back over the Arthur River and to Mackay Falls, alongside which sits Bell Rock. This is hollow and it is possible to get inside by crawling in from the front. The guide says you can stand. I couldn’t.

Just after we left Mackay Falls we came across a weka (pronounced wikka by the locals). Again this appeared unafraid, taking a close interest in Jane’s boot laces. A little further on, before we got to Giant’s Gate, the clouds parted briefly and Mitre Peak, which dominates Milford Sound was visible. A photograph was taken in case this was the only opportunity.

From Giant’s Gate the track becomes easy, skirting the sides of Lake Ada and opening out to a double width in the last couple of miles. We reached Sandfly Point, the end of the track, in very good time and so we had to wait until the booked time for the boat. Fortunately the hut provided shelter from the large number of sand flies from which the area gets its name.

We boarded the second boat which sped us across to the village of Milford Sound. A spectacular journey with Mitre Peak ahead in bright sunshine. Into the final lodge. Our room was at the front with a great view of the peak. A bit of a rest followed by a evening to celebrate with the guides and our fellow walkers.

Milford Track – Day 3

Day 3 of the track is the hardest. The walk is 15 km from Pomplona Lodge up and over the Mackinnon Pass then down to Quintin Lodge. The top of the pass is at 1154 m and the climb and descent are about 800 m and 1000 m respectively. It’s the down that is the real hard going.

We set off in shade but it was clear that we were going to have another cloudless day; there is no cover from the sun above the tree line.

The track climbs consistently from Pomplona; at about the 12 miles mark (there are posts every mile from Glade Hut) there is a short, steep stretch which is called Practice Hill which reflects the pitch on the main climb. A comparatively gentle stretch follows Mintaro Hut and the the track starts to zig-zag steeply up. It continues for two miles. The guide book says helpfully “at the 15 mile marker you are half way up”.

It took us time to reach Mackinnon’s Memorial which is on the saddle about 100 m below the top of the pass. It was built by Mackinnon’s rugby club colleagues, carrying the cement all the way up. There our guides provided very welcome hot drinks while we took a bit of a rest. We haven’t tasted Milo for many years.

Our movements were kept under surveillance by a couple of keas, the NZ Alpine parrots. According to the guides these intelligent birds move up and down the track to wherever they think a walking group which could give them the best chance of a free meal might be.

View into the valley towards Quintin Lodge

Even when you get to the memorial you are not at the top. It is about another half hour’s walk and 100 m climb.

The way down is steep and rocky. You have to be thinking all the time about where to tread. It was hard going, in full sun for most of the time, and we were very glad to reach Quintin Lodge. The one easy section is when the track descends about 200 m by way of a series of staircases at the Cascades. We declined the optional hour and a half round trip to the Sutherland Falls on hearing that there was a long, steep section.

The lodge, like all the others on the track run by Ultimate Hikes had washing facilities and a drying room, fed somehow with waste heat from the lodge generator, which was very hot and dried clothes very quickly. Our clothes needed a good wash.

Milford Track – Day 2

Day 2 was probably our favourite day on the Milford Track. It was a 16km hike up a fairly gentle gradient. Much like our usual day’s walking in UK. By accident, we set out as part of the first party to leave the lodge, crossing the swing bridge over the Clinton River in the cool of the morning. We entered the Beech forest.

Soon our first South Island bush robin flew over to investigate us. Fearless of humans, they hope that you will disturb the ground and give them access to food. This one didn’t seem phased when my camera flash went off by accident.

Walking on at the side of the river we were lucky to see it bathed in bright morning light. Then we came to an area called the Wetlands where this environment has been carefully preserved and a board walk built to protect it from people walking on it. Leaving our packs, which is an indication to guides and other walkers that you are off the track at that point, we took a short detour to have a look.

The track continued by the river which provided great views up to the point where it split into two branches, North and West.

The track goes up the West branch, past the Dead Lake which was formed when a land slip dammed the river. We stopped at Hirere Falls hut for lunch. The associated “Long Drop” is a good example of that useful NZ construction. Very soon after leaving Hirere we were given our first view of Mackinnon Pass which was our objective for the following day.

Hirere Falls. “Long drop” in the foreground

A couple of kilometres from the lunch stop was Pararie Lake which was deep and warm enough for the brave to take a swim. We had a paddle!

A waterfall feeds the pool at the far side

After the the pool it was just a short walk to Pomplona Lodge where we were to spend the night. But before we got there we had to cross an area where a big rock slide had obliterated the track. Not too difficult if you followed the orange DOC marker posts.

Milford Track – Day 1

The first day on the Milford Track guided walk is obviously designed to break you in gently. Ours started early at 8.30 when we all reported at the Station Building in Queenstown to meet three of our guides, Brit, Fumi and Isaac. Then, in what must be a well rehearsed operation, all the backpacks, extra equipment for the final night at Milford Sound and the walkers themselves were packed swiftly into the coach.

We then set off for the Te Anau, via Mossburn for a comfort stop. Mossburn is said to be were the red deer industry started in New Zealand and this is commemorated by a sculpture of a stag in the centre of the town. From Mossburn we went on to Te Anau where we had lunch before moving finally in the coach to Te Anau Downs, on Lake Te Anau, where we were joined by Andrew, our fourth guide, who had just completed a walk with another group.

We all went onboard the launch which was to carry us up to the jetty at the head of the lake. On the voyage we passed a small islet on which was erected a cross. This was in memoriam to Quintin Mackinnon, the man who found the pass through which the track runs, who disappeared in about the same spot.

Having landed at the jetty we walked just under a mile to Glade House which was our lodge for the first night. Group photograph taken, we split into smaller parties and were taken on nature walks to explore the surrounding area. We declined to take part in the group which was going to swim in the river. It looked far too cold.

Back at the lodge we enjoyed an excellent dinner, getting to know other walkers.

Wanaka – Queenstown

We had decided to take the short cut, the Cardrona Pass, from Wanaka to Queenstown for three reasons – speed, scenic value and the fact that Cardrona in the Scottish Borders is no distance at all from where my parents used to live. Before we set off we walked the track over Mount Iron, which is just outside Wanaka, in order to keep in practice. Just under 5k but a bit of climb and descent and great views.

Hate having photos taken but when it’s offered….

The drive through the Pass was worthwhile. Cardrona is a well preserved little halt, worth a photo or two. The scenery on the drive is excellent and there are plenty of stopping places, particularly as you pass down the Crown Range Road at the end of the journey.

On the way into Queenstown we stopped off in Arrowtown. This is a well preserved small settler community from the time of the gold rush and well worth a visit. It documents quite clearly the differences in the circumstances of the European miners and the many Chinese who came to the area to work in the gold fields.

Chinese wooden dwellings in the cliff area

Queenstown is the liveliest place we have been to in New Zealand so far. It is very much holiday town. Every open air adventure is catered for. There were a lot of young people and families enjoying themselves. But that wasn’t what we were about on our first visit there. We had come to start the Milford Track and so our focus was on preparing for that.

We joined 45 other walkers at Ultimate Hikes HQ at 4.45 that afternoon. We were briefed to within an inch of our lives, leant equipment like larger rucksacks which we might not have brought and given the opportunity to buy other stuff which might be useful. I succumbed to a pair of slip on rubber slippers for use in the lodges; the sandals I had brought for this had proved to rub badly. Then back to the apartment for dinner and a re-pack.

Total distance: 5110 m
Total climbing: 294 m
Total descent: -299 m
Total time: 01:31:46

Franz Josef

Our arrival in Franz Josef wasn’t auspicious. We were seated very politely in the hotel foyer while the manager tried to find out why there was no booking for us. Eventually the lines of communication between the Trailfinders, hotel chain HQ and hotel were straightened out and we were in our room. Phew. A slightly fraught moment, particularly since all the hotels/motels we had seen said firmly “No Accommodation”.

We checked out Heli Hikes that evening so we were prepared for the following morning. The guidance was that they would provide everything we just needed to be reasonably warmly dressed.

So the next day we turned up to be issued with socks, boots, waterproof jackets and trousers, crampons and bags to carry things in. Once we were dressed and briefed we walked over to the helicopter-pad. The ground crew said that they operate up to eight aircraft at a time from there.

Strapped in and with earphones on, we headed up to the glacier. First we flew over the grey rocks which formed the fairly dry river bed at the bottom of the valley. Then we were given a bit of a fly around as we ascended, turned well above the point we were to land at and then zig-zagged down to it.

The short path from the landing point to where we were to put on our crampons was slushy ice but it was still quite difficult to get used to walking on. Crampons are a bit of an art too but once we were used to them we found that they gave us lots of grip.

Once we were all ready our guides led us off, using long ice axes to improve the path we were to take. The day was hot and sunny and so there was a lot of melted water flowing around. Normally it just flowed along channels it had cut in the ice but sometimes it just disappeared down holes, presumably to emerge later as under ice streams. Although there seemed to be quite a lot of rock dust in/on the ice our guides assured us that the water was good to drink and most of us tried it. Not bad at all.

As we climbed we were going towards a very large piece of rock round which the ice was flowing. The effect of the ice on pieces of rock was rather like the penny arcade game where you add coins in the hope that one of them will push others over the edge and down. The movement of the ice was pushing bits of rock towards the edge of the large piece and, every so often, there would be a mini rock fall. We were safely out of the way.

As we reached an area of more disturbed ice we turned for home. Although the colour of the surface ice was whiteish, tinged with rock dust, in places where there were holes in the ice these could be an amazing blue. Towards the end of the walk we looked at an area on the other side of the glacier which was heavily crevassed. It was obvious why exploration in the ice is a slow process.

The helicopter returned and took us directly back to the pad area. When we got back to base we declined with regrets the offer of free use of the associated hot springs for the rest of the day and set off southwards along the coast road towards Wanaka.

As we went along the northern part, near Bruce Bay, the sea mist was rolling in but when we turned inland at Haast the weather got better. Along Highway 6 and across the Haast Pass. Slightly disappointing. We saw no indication and rather missed it.

Driving South, Lake Wanaka appears on the right hand side of the road then you turn across a short piece of land and you are driving with Lake Hawea on your left. We were lucky to see them in sunshine when they were a beautiful deep blue.

In Wanaka we checked in to our B&B and asked the manager for a recommendation for dinner. We set off for the Lakeside Inn where we had an excellent supper. Slept very well afterwards thanks to my not noticing the beer I had ordered was 7% ABV and the extra couple of glasses of wine which arrived as a result of a bar error.

Greymouth to Franz Josef via Hokitika

While in Greymouth our B&B host had recommended that we should see the Pancake Rocks which are only a few kilometres North of the town along the coastal highway. So, on leaving the next morning, we duly made our way along that road.

The weather was warm and muggy and we saw sea clouds rolling in in places. The road is pretty much along the sea with the semi-tropical forest, typical of the Western side of the mountains, rising steeply inland.

We got to the rocks in no time at all, despite our first experience of the common NZ road building technique of connecting stretches of two lane road with single track bridges. Disconcerting until you get used to it. I think we had expected the rocks would be at the end of a track from a nondescript car park. Not so. There is a large car park, iSite, cafe and a Tarmac path with information boards leading down to, round and back from the rocks via a different route. It was also our first experience of a tourist site in NZ at Chinese New Year. It was busy. And we saw our first Jucy rental vehicle, a common sight on the roads here.

While on the path down to the rocks, we heard lots of cicadas chirping (If they chirp. Perhaps that’s crickets). They were on the flax plants and one was clearly visible.

The Pancake Rocks are in Punakaiki. They are layers of limestone, the layers being caused by the pressure on alternating layers of hard and soft deposits when the rocks were formed. A very interesting formation, slowly being worn away by the action of the sea. There are blow holes which perform at high tide and probably best with strong onshore surf. We didn’t have those conditions so we stayed dry.

Leaving the Rocks, we turned back towards Greymouth and passed through on our way to Hokitika. The cloud had cleared by this time and we arrived in brilliant sunshine. The town is now a centre for tourism and, it would appear, a laid-back lifestyle. We had a wander around the beach looking at some of the imaginative art work made from drift wood in a recent competition.